Town Crier
October 2003
Travel Asia: Jeepney Mayhem, p. 26
Felice Tusi takes a front seat to catch some Filipino culture
Have you ever
found yourself squeezed in tightly with twenty other passangers,
all drenched in sweat, with blaring music wreaking havoc on your
ears, whilst careering through town at 90 kph? Or has anyone used
your shoulder as an unwilling pillow during the static rush hour
traffic? Have you ever experienced holding on for dear life just
on your way to work, arms numb and knuckles white from hanging onto
steel railings for far too long?
Mass transport is never crazy as when one hops aboard one of Manila's
jeepneys – chrome-plated road warriors that ferry passengers
through the ins and outs of the city and nearby locales. Filipinos
have been riding in jeepneys for over 50 years, ever since some
ingenious individual thought of fashioning public transport out
of the American military jeeps that lay scattered throughout the
post war Philippines.
Visitors to manila are fascinated in one way or the other by these
crude four-wheelers that reign over most roads in the city. Where
Thailand has its tuk-tuks and Vietnam its cyclos, the jeepney is
the Philippines' unique king of the road. Built up to twenty people,
the number is often swelled by some who bravely hold on to the door
railings. In far-flung provinces they pack even more passengers
by adding a wooden bench in the middle or letting men sit on the
rooftop!
Army
Surplus
Tracing the origins of the jeepney is like getting a glimpse of
modern-day Filipino culture from the front seat. During the American
occupation, there was a lack of proper public transport in Metro
Manila and when the Americans left behind their service jeeps, somebody
saw a great opportunity in there vehicles. Leonardo Sarao, a humble
calesa (horse-drawn carriage) driver from nearby Cavite province,
built the first batch that roamed the city streets. These first
few jeepneys were compact, offering seats for only four persons.
Not much was added to narrow body or small engine running it. But
when the American surplus withered in number, the Sarao brothers
sought to make changes that would make the vehicle more attuned
to Filipino ways.
In the 1960s they started using German and Japanese engines that
were bigger but less complicated than the US-made parts. Edgardo
Sarao, an architect who belonged to the second generation of jeepney
manufacturers, remembered how his father and uncles built the embodiment
of their dream – a machine halfway between a bus and a jeep
– using their combined skills as auto mechanics and ironsmiths.
To borrow a cliché, the Saraos reinvented the wheel by streamlining
the design and functionality of the jeepney. With a wider engine,
the body was bigger, allowing more seating capacity to satisfy the
Filipinos' penchant for lively group assemblies (true enough: one
can chance upon animated conversations between passengers). The
windows were left wide open to allow the wind to pass through, a
welcome relief on Manila's roads especially on summer days.
They also started using local materials, such as coconut husk, for
upholstery. And, if you've ever wondered why miniature steel horses
adorn the hood – that's Leonardo's way of paying homage to
his earlier career as a calesa driver that gave the family its means
of livelihood.
Flashy and Floral
Filipinos' propensity for festivals and parties resonates in the
more flamboyant jeepney décor apparent during the 70s and
80s. The typical look of this era resembles that of a glitzy disco,
with colorful mini lights blinking in rhythm and flashy artwork
painted on the exterior. And as a country with a deep spiritual
foundation, religious images with floral lei offerings are also
present. Usually next to the steering wheel, right beside the driver's
money box, these tokens are believed to bring safe passage –
and why not, given the haphazard state of the country's roads. Painting
the family name on the sides of the vehicle is yet another customised
feature.
But on a more serious note, as setbacks continue to beset the local
economy, jeepneys have taken on a more minimalist look. Gone are
the dizzyingly elaborate designs as drivers opt for bare stainless
steel for lower costs. Manufacturers are also struggling to compete
with imported air-conditioned Japanese commuter vans that are gaining
popularity. At the Sarao factory in Las Pinas City, where everything
from bodywork to accessories is assembled by hand, the average output
per day is three, a stark contrast to the 18 units common during
the 70s and 80s. Another hurdle for the industry is the stringent
emission tests required for the government for all vehicles in light
of new environmental laws.
It's sad to hear about the plight of this unique vehicle that is
such a colorful part of the Filipino street scene. Rough times are
ahead for Manila jeepneys, but these road warriors will no doubt
battle through as they do each day on the city's crowded streets.
How to get there:
There are regular flights to Manila from most major cities in Asia.
From Hong Kong, Cathay Pacific, Philippine Airlines and Cebu Pacific
have regular schedules.
When to
go:
The best time to visit is from November to April, outside the monsoon
season.
Where
to stay:
There are a wide range of hotels from budget to high-end found through
out Manila, especially in the tourist district of Malate, in Roxas
Boulevard area or in the commercial hub of Makati.
Recommendations:
High-end: Makati Shangri-la Hotel
Mid-range: Dusit Hotel Nikko
Budget: City Garden Suites
For more
information about these and other hotels, visit http://www.asiahotels.com/hl/Metro_Manila-Philippines.asp.
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