Town Crier

October 2003

Travel Asia: Jeepney Mayhem, p. 26


Felice Tusi takes a front seat to catch some Filipino culture

Have you ever found yourself squeezed in tightly with twenty other passangers, all drenched in sweat, with blaring music wreaking havoc on your ears, whilst careering through town at 90 kph? Or has anyone used your shoulder as an unwilling pillow during the static rush hour traffic? Have you ever experienced holding on for dear life just on your way to work, arms numb and knuckles white from hanging onto steel railings for far too long?

Mass transport is never crazy as when one hops aboard one of Manila's jeepneys – chrome-plated road warriors that ferry passengers through the ins and outs of the city and nearby locales. Filipinos have been riding in jeepneys for over 50 years, ever since some ingenious individual thought of fashioning public transport out of the American military jeeps that lay scattered throughout the post war Philippines.

Visitors to manila are fascinated in one way or the other by these crude four-wheelers that reign over most roads in the city. Where Thailand has its tuk-tuks and Vietnam its cyclos, the jeepney is the Philippines' unique king of the road. Built up to twenty people, the number is often swelled by some who bravely hold on to the door railings. In far-flung provinces they pack even more passengers by adding a wooden bench in the middle or letting men sit on the rooftop!

Army Surplus
Tracing the origins of the jeepney is like getting a glimpse of modern-day Filipino culture from the front seat. During the American occupation, there was a lack of proper public transport in Metro Manila and when the Americans left behind their service jeeps, somebody saw a great opportunity in there vehicles. Leonardo Sarao, a humble calesa (horse-drawn carriage) driver from nearby Cavite province, built the first batch that roamed the city streets. These first few jeepneys were compact, offering seats for only four persons. Not much was added to narrow body or small engine running it. But when the American surplus withered in number, the Sarao brothers sought to make changes that would make the vehicle more attuned to Filipino ways.

In the 1960s they started using German and Japanese engines that were bigger but less complicated than the US-made parts. Edgardo Sarao, an architect who belonged to the second generation of jeepney manufacturers, remembered how his father and uncles built the embodiment of their dream – a machine halfway between a bus and a jeep – using their combined skills as auto mechanics and ironsmiths.

To borrow a cliché, the Saraos reinvented the wheel by streamlining the design and functionality of the jeepney. With a wider engine, the body was bigger, allowing more seating capacity to satisfy the Filipinos' penchant for lively group assemblies (true enough: one can chance upon animated conversations between passengers). The windows were left wide open to allow the wind to pass through, a welcome relief on Manila's roads especially on summer days.

They also started using local materials, such as coconut husk, for upholstery. And, if you've ever wondered why miniature steel horses adorn the hood – that's Leonardo's way of paying homage to his earlier career as a calesa driver that gave the family its means of livelihood.

Flashy and Floral
Filipinos' propensity for festivals and parties resonates in the more flamboyant jeepney décor apparent during the 70s and 80s. The typical look of this era resembles that of a glitzy disco, with colorful mini lights blinking in rhythm and flashy artwork painted on the exterior. And as a country with a deep spiritual foundation, religious images with floral lei offerings are also present. Usually next to the steering wheel, right beside the driver's money box, these tokens are believed to bring safe passage – and why not, given the haphazard state of the country's roads. Painting the family name on the sides of the vehicle is yet another customised feature.

But on a more serious note, as setbacks continue to beset the local economy, jeepneys have taken on a more minimalist look. Gone are the dizzyingly elaborate designs as drivers opt for bare stainless steel for lower costs. Manufacturers are also struggling to compete with imported air-conditioned Japanese commuter vans that are gaining popularity. At the Sarao factory in Las Pinas City, where everything from bodywork to accessories is assembled by hand, the average output per day is three, a stark contrast to the 18 units common during the 70s and 80s. Another hurdle for the industry is the stringent emission tests required for the government for all vehicles in light of new environmental laws.

It's sad to hear about the plight of this unique vehicle that is such a colorful part of the Filipino street scene. Rough times are ahead for Manila jeepneys, but these road warriors will no doubt battle through as they do each day on the city's crowded streets.

How to get there:
There are regular flights to Manila from most major cities in Asia. From Hong Kong, Cathay Pacific, Philippine Airlines and Cebu Pacific have regular schedules.

When to go:
The best time to visit is from November to April, outside the monsoon season.

Where to stay:
There are a wide range of hotels from budget to high-end found through out Manila, especially in the tourist district of Malate, in Roxas Boulevard area or in the commercial hub of Makati.

Recommendations:
High-end: Makati Shangri-la Hotel
Mid-range: Dusit Hotel Nikko
Budget: City Garden Suites

For more information about these and other hotels, visit http://www.asiahotels.com/hl/Metro_Manila-Philippines.asp.