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Lombok, Indonesia
City Guide
Introduction |
Attractions |
Beaches |
Tourist Information Offices |
Entertainment & Eating Out |
Shopping |
Cyber Lombok |
Getting from A to B |
Tours |
Events
Introduction
Lombok forms part of the southern chain of Indonesian islands that fringe the Indian Ocean. Lying east of Bali, it is roughly the same size, but very different in both character and development. The island has a very laid back and agricultural feel with tourism low key and restricted to a few pockets.
Its the uncrowded beaches and lazy ambience that draws people to Lombok. Diving is good and despite the headlines Lombok is a friendly place, and its people are warm, relaxed and courteous. While Lombok lacks the cultural splendour of Bali, for those looking to escape the crowds it makes a great diversion and is becoming a destination in its own right.
Note: Lomboks religious and political tensions are typical of troubled Indonesia today and outbreaks of rioting and ethnic violence, although rare, have occurred.
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Attractions
There are few attractions as such on Lombok. Most are pleasant diversions from beaching and are interesting enough. The capital Mataram is a rather drab city.
The largest temple on Lombok is the symbolic Pura Meru in Cakranegara. 3 multi-tiered pagodas dating from 1720 honour the Hindu trinity. Nearby, set by an artificial lake is Mayura Water Palace. The remnants of the Balinese royal palace date from 1774 and exhibit an unusual blend of regional influences.
South of the capital is Sukarare, a weaving village. Traditionally-dressed women weave bright-patterned cloth on wooden handlooms in simple surroundings. Visitors can be shown around, but unfortunately it seems the jaded weavers have seen one tourist too many. Some excellent although pricey work is for sale.
Not far from the weaving village is Penujak, a famous pottery village that fires every imaginable type of pot and tile from local red clay in traditional kilns. Maybe worth a peek.
A fair 1727 Balinese temple, Narmada, lies 11km east of Mataram. The terraced gardens and pool represent the peak and crater lake of Lomboks revered Rinjani volcano. The sacred spring in the centre is believed to give pilgrims eternal youth.
There are one or two interesting Sasak villages on the road south to Kuta. They are built in traditional-style from mud and thatch in an arid agricultural area. Friendly villagers take you on an enlightening tour of their very simple homes.
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Beaches
Lombok has scores of good beaches, few of which have been remotely developed. The only beach that has grown into a true tourist destination is Senggigi. This quiet and gently sloping cove is the major destination, but is still a lazy and tranquil spot compared to those on Bali. You dont need to go far to have a whole beach to yourself.
The 3 white sand Gili Islands off the northwest are also popular. All are still in their infancy in terms of development. None have any paved roads or motor vehicles, electricity is very temperamental, supplies limited and as yet there is no fresh water plumbing. The majority of visitors to the Gilis are backpackers.
Note: The ruggedness, lack of facilities, and the need to clamber on and off outriggers and wade ashore would make these islands extremely inconvenient for elderly or disabled travellers.
The largest and most developed is Gili Tarawangan. This is where most of the accommodation, dive shops and all of the Gili nightlife lies. Gili Meno and Gili Air are both smaller and quieter with nothing other than snorkeling to do. Meno is now linked to Bali and Senggigi by catamaran.
The snorkeling and diving off the Gilis is quite good, blue coral rather than dead white coral exists and marine life, particularly turtles, is in abundance.
On the south coast of Lombok are the superb stretches of almost totally deserted white sands. Kuta is great for swimmers and further west from Tanjung Aan are the best beaches for surfers and windsurfers. Gerupak to the east is another good one with boards for hire.
Note: Lombok is predominantly Islamic. For women traveling away from the tourist areas it advisable to cover up - beachwear is considered sexually provocative.
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Tourist Information Offices
Tourist information is available at the airport and in the capital. Senggigi and the Gilis have plenty of flexible independent operators.
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Entertainment and Eating Out
Theres not a huge choice in this department. Once again the bulk of the better restaurants and entertainment lies around Senggigi. Prices are very good.
The most obvious is the open two-floored Taman Restaurant. It has a very good menu with some excellent seafood and cheap prices. Several good beachfront restaurants line the shores. Putri Lombok Restaurant II is a good, friendly choice with a very affordable menu. Hotels offer some of the best dining options in the area.
Club Tropicana is a lively nightclub and the focus of nightlife in Senggigi. There are one or two bars on Gili Tarawangan throwing beach parties for the young crowd.
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Shopping
Shopping is pretty miserable in Lombok. The economy is sluggish and largely agricultural so few decent shopping options exist.
The capitals shops sell largely practical and functional goods, the best selection being in Cakranegara City. Sweta market is the largest traditional market on Lombok - pretty average.
The best place for buying souvenirs, furniture and beach clothes is Senggigi where a few good woodcraft and antique shops also exist.
Shops will be keen to take you to their factories for a greater choice. However, many antiques are not as old as one might think. A carving thats sat unsold on the shelf for 5 years is considered an antique.
The Art Market in the centre of Senggigi is a good place to pick up clothing and nik-naks, but prices start at silly levels and are a huge effort to bring down. Bartering is essential!
The small string of mini shops and stalls on Gili Tarawangan offer lower prices for T-shirts, second hand books and trinkets.
The weaving and pottery villages not far from Mataram sell their wares to visitors. Ethnic villages near Tete Batu have superior blankets and Sasak sarongs.
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Cyber
Lombok
Internet cafes are common in Senggigi, and some exist on Gili Tarawangan. Communications are poor and cut-offs common, especially on Tarawangan. Rates however, are very cheap. A good one is Planet Internet in Senggigi which doubles as a craft shop.
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Getting from A to B
Getting around Lombok can be difficult. Public transport isnt well developed, although major transit points are linked. To reach more remote areas and attractions, travellers must arrange their own transport.
Note: Lombok has several potholes potentially hazardous to the pedestrian. The pavement is made of concrete slabs placed over a sewer. Some have collapsed and others missing altogether. Add to this Lomboks regular electricity blackouts and the result is a hideous accident waiting to happen. Beware!
Taxis are very common in the capital and can be flagged down easily. In Senggigi taxis are fewer but can be easily ordered from hotels. Further out they are rare - very few roam past. Prices are excellent and the meter is usually employed without a gentle nudge.
There are a few public buses running around and from the main station in Sweta close to the capital. Yellow bemos are a useful and cheap way to get around the elongated capital.
Useful for travel are the bargain bemos that scoot around the island. Visitors can hop on or off at any point, but will need to barter. The rather uncomfortable bemos can also be chartered for longer trips.
There are no trains on Lombok.
A cheap and handy option for short distances is the horse and cart. On the Gili Islands this is the only way to travel - there are no motor vehicles.
It is relatively simple to hire cars or motorbikes on Lombok. This is a good cheap way to get out and see the island, and with few roads and less traffic, a less stressful prospect than nearby Bali. Ensure that the vehicle is roadworthy - some are definitely not. Watch out for roaming cows and goats.
Mountain Bikes are a great way for the energetic to get out into the rural areas.
Note: If stuck or marooned somewhere, it is surprisingly easy to grab a lift off any passing vehicle. Enterprising locals will often be delighted to negotiate a reasonable transport fee.
Outriggers can be chartered to the Gili Islands from Senggigi beach. The cheaper alternative involves driving to Bangsal Harbour opposite the islands and jumping on one there. Expect to be pestered while you wait for the boat.
There are ferry connections to adjacent Bali and Sumbawa. They are fairly old, slow and basic. The clanking Bali ferry leaves Padangbai in Bali and docks at Lembar, about 45 minutes from Senggigi. The crossing takes 4-6 hrs, depending on the weather. The Sumbawa ferry departs from Labuhan Lombok arriving at Poto Sano around 2hrs later.
The best sea route is via the flashy catamaran Bounty Cruise link from Benoa in Bali direct to Senggigi then Gili Meno. The journey caters for tourists, takes around 2hrs and is very comfortable. The Mabua Express is another high speed and comfortable link that takes around 2 1/2hrs and docks at Lembar.
Full trips inclusive of tourist buses and ferries Indonesian destinations are available from tour operators and can be a real bargain, albeit an uncomfortable one.
Mataram international airport is linked to Singapore and several daily flights to major Indonesian airports including Bali, only 25 minutes away. Watch out for airport porters who whisk your bags away and demand payment. The service is not for free.
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Tours
Day tours to the Gili Islands can be easily arranged, inclusive of snorkeling or diving. Some stop off to feed the streetwise monkeys in Pusuk Forest on the way to the villages and waterfalls of the lush and green north.
At 3726m Mt. Rinjani is the major excursion on Lombok and the most exhausting. The tough trek up and down this awesome volcano takes 3 or 4 days. It has a smouldering inner cone, hot springs and a crescent-shaped crater lake. The scenery is stunning and holy Rinjani draws many hikers and pilgrims who bathe in the mystic hot springs.
Note: Rinjani is not the safest choice, it last erupted in 1995 and hikers have plunged to their doom from the slippery trails. Bandits have also preyed upon unfortunate travellers, marauding monkeys are an annoyance and theres a lot of litter. There are of course no toilets on Rinjani
Head for the north side of Rinjani for Lomboks best waterfalls. The day-long excursion is tiring but rewarding.
For a glimpse of traditional agricultural life, Sembalun Bumbung and Sembalun Lawang are two traditional Sasak villages on the slopes of Rinjani. Other tours stop off at the simple Sasak villages of the arid southern plains en route to Kuta beach.
Children persistently hassle visitors but Tete Batu is a quiet, green and beautiful area. Avoid the Jeruk Manis waterfall near Tete Batu - nothing spectacular.
Boat tours depart to remote Komodo for the islands famous giant lizards - the monstrous Komodo dragons. Tours to the isolated and dusty island last between 4 and 6 days.
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Events
Lombok has Islamic, Hindu and Christian religions as well as the indigenous Waktu Telu, a blend of local practices and Islam. Various indigenous festivals are celebrated in traditional villages, spilling onto the roads throughout the year.
The dates of Islamic festivals switch every year. Ramadan is the largest and is marked by a month of fasting. It concludes with Eid al-Fitr, a huge feast with prayers and gifts among family and friends. Another big Islamic feast is Eid al-Adah when pilgrims head for Mecca.
Every year between October and December the rain festival Perang Topat takes place in the unique temple at Lingsar, north of Mataram. The translation for this is topat war. Topat is sticky rice wrapped in palm leaf, and two teams hurl topat at each other in celebration of a successful harvest. Anyone can join in this frenzied food fight.
A colourful Balinese Hindu ceremony, Pura Meru, occurs in June at the time of the full moon at Cakranegaras temple.
Note: Christian churches in the capital have become targets for arson and bomb attacks - 3 recently rebuilt ones were blown up over Christmas 2000. Christian festivals may coincide with ethnic violence. Take care.
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