Melaka, Malaysia
City Guide
Introduction |
Attractions |
Entertainment and Eating Out |
Shopping |
Tourist Information Offices |
Cyber Melaka |
Tours |
Getting from A to B |
Events
Introduction
Melaka is located on the West Coast of the Malaysian peninsular, with Kuala Lumpur and Singapore several hours drive north
and south respectively. Commanding a central position on the Straits of Malacca, Melaka has had a rich history as a strategically and
economically important port.
Initially a busy trading centre attracting Indian and Chinese merchants, its prosperity soon drew the attention of the European
superpowers. First the Portuguese, then the Dutch and later the British had a go at running the place for over a century each and all have left their mark.
The Japanese also controlled it for much of WWII.
Today the port has all but disappeared and land reclamation has changed the old coastline beyond recognition. Dont expect
beautiful beaches and clear waters, most of the time the sea is flat, cloudy and washes against an ugly beachless shoreline.
But Melaka is a worthy detour with plenty to keep you occupied for an enjoyable short stay. In an increasingly modernising nation, this is one of the few
places in Malaysia that retains a sense of history with pride. Its appeal lies in its centuries old mix of cultures, and the pleasing results are
evident in both its fine traditional architecture and on your plate.
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Attractions
The central point is locally named Red Square. All the buildings are painted red and from here it is easy to
access Melakas best sites by foot or rickshaw. This is a popular spot for photography, especially with the Clock
Tower and Victoria Fountain in the centre. The people of Malaya dedicated the fountain to Queen Victoria in 1904.
The square is dominated by the 340-year-old Stadhuys, the Town Hall. It was the official residence of the Dutch
Governors and believed to be the oldest Dutch building in South-East Asia. Today it is the home to the interesting Historical
Museum and Ethnography Museum. The Historical section offers an in-depth window on Melakas progression through time, using the usual old
photos, paintings, and maps. The Ethnography section has displays on all the various communities in Melaka, focusing on cultures, traditions and
ceremonies. The Literature Museum behind is academic and quite boring.
The prominent Dutch Christ Church was built in 1753 and its 200-year-old handmade pews are still in use today.
Tombstones on the church floor are written in Armenian Script, with Christs "Last Supper" depicted in glazed tiles. It may look closed due to the enclosed entrance, but approach
the left hand side of the building to gain entry.
Proceeding up St. Paul's Hill past the Stadhuys is the ruins of St. Paul's Church, a great place to gaze out over Melaka and out to sea. Built
by a Portuguese captain in 1521 it was once the main prayer house of Portuguese Catholics and the interior walls are lined with old tombstones. Ruined and not
particularly impressive but worth the hike up the hill for the view alone.
The Portuguese built a fortress in 1511 that was all but destroyed during the Dutch invasion - all that remains is the
stone gateway at the bottom of St Pauls Hill. A Famosa is not terribly exciting but perhaps one for the album as you pass through.
In front of the A Famosa gate is a concrete covered grandstand that appears to face the wrong way - that is until the
evening when it is the venue for the visually pleasing Sound & Light Show. Shows start at 8:00pm in Malay and 9:30pm in English and cost only a
few Ringgit. Various buildings and ruins nearby are illuminated whilst a running commentary and music blare out.
A reconstruction of the Melaka Sultanate Palace sits at the foot of St. Paul's Hill. Based on 16th
century designs, it is the only building of its kind in Malaysia, providing a rare and interesting glimpse of the ancient Malay kingdom. It is now the site
of the Malacca Cultural Museum. Be prepared to take your shoes off before entering as the entire structure is wooden. Probably best to visit here
first as all that walking throughout the day can cause some really sweaty, smelly feet. Well maintained gardens slope gently away from the Palace for a
quiet stroll or laze in the hot sun.
The British Villa, built in 1912 to house the Colonel Melaka Club, is now the Proclamation of Independence Hall. Its a bit too nationalistic with displays
that are in need of refurbishment.
The Muzium Rakyat (Peoples Museum) is a really weird assortment of exhibits on 3 floors. The ground floor showcases national and local development.
Odd displays have everything from local public phone boxes to scale models depicting grandioso development projects, most of which have yet
to be started let alone finished. The middle floor or Beauty Museum is not for those who faint at the sight of a pierced eyebrow. Featuring pictures and detailed descriptions of every
form of body beautification from around the world (some would say mutilation), its actually interesting, educational and hard to believe at times.
Behind the Tourist Information Office is the Maritime Museum. Its a reconstruction of a Portuguese ship Flors De La Mar and looks out of place plunked on the riverbank, but it stresses the
huge importance of the sea to Melakas development. The original that set sail from Melaka sank on its way to Portugal laden with treasure. Its not surprising as the replica looks
like it too would tip over. Ship models and dioramas highlight marine vessels and activity during the colonial periods.
The Royal Malaysian Navy Museum houses navy memorabilia and articles raised from the sunken Diana bound for
Madras from China in 1817. Pop your head through the door, at least you can say youve seen it.
The fascinating Chinatown area and the famous Jonker Street now named Jalan Hang Jebat, once a wealthy traders
street, still has a tremendous number of original British and Dutch buildings now housing shop houses of the Straits Chinese. The area is great for exploring
on foot.
The Baba-Nyonya Heritage Museum is a private home and museum. Open courtyards greet visitors with cascading sunshine, and ornate carvings and
tiles inside and out. Large embroidered wall hangings rest proudly over Dutch mother-of-pearl, Victorian and Chinese furniture, and tiles all feature
throughout. A great little museum, where one can gain an insight into Peranakan culture an informative 45-minute tour is available.
Peranakan culture incorporates both the Chinese settlers and local Malays. Peranakan in Malay means born here or Straits born. Baba refers to
the males and Nyonya refers to the women. The area gave rise to new culture with its own language, dress and food.
Worth a visit is the oldest Chinese temple in Malaysia. The craftsmen and materials all came from China, the design reflects this combining Taoism, Buddhism and Confucianism. The 1646 Cheng
Hoon Temple is colourful and ornate with a ceremonial mast to the right rising like a location marker.
Chinatown has its own mosque, Kampong Klings Mosque and also a Hindu temple - Sri Poyyatha Vinayagar Moorthi
Temple, built in 1781 and dedicated to the deity Vinoyagar. The mosque dates from 1728 and emulates some of those found in Sumatra, which unusually includes a tiered roof rather than
the conventional dome found on most mosques.
Hidden away up river are Kampung Morten and Villa Sentosa, traditional Malay wooden kampung houses in generous grounds, ideal for wandering around. Villa Sentosa is a family home open to the public, not big on
information or full of artifacts, but nonetheless a pleasant browse.
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Entertainment and Eating Out
Melaka really does have something for every taste and budget. Food is tremendous different cultures offer a broad choice and there are some intriguing hybrids.
Restaurants abound around China Town, up river from Red Square and on the old beach front of Jalan Taman Merdeka. Food is good, there is a broad selection of stalls and it is relatively
inexpensive, especially if you haggle a little.
Nyonya Baba food is a definite for any visitor to Melaka, the main ingredients are coconut and dried shrimp paste, chili and other spices. Look out for Laksas, Curry Kapitan, and
Udang Lemak Nenas. Glutenous nyonya cakes are a traditional local treat.
Indian food is best in the aptly named Little India area around Jalan Temenggong. Vegetarians are best catered for here.
A culinary legacy remains in the shape of Portuguese food. Head to Medan Portuguese for dinner, where there is often live music, there are a couple of restaurants in the square, and a few
more outside also on the water's edge. One or two are a bit grotty and can smell more of the sea and the nearby toilets, so browse around first.
Theres not much entertainment or nightlife in town. The Jonker area has some trendy if a little pricey restaurants
in the old houses and shops. There are a few bars around here and a couple near Red Square but that's about it.
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Shopping
There are piles of antique shops in the China town area of Jonker Street selling furniture and porcelain,
but dont expect bargains. Many guides talk about the wonderful haven for antique collectors and bargain hunters. This is not the case - there are
numerous shops but it is not so easy to find a bargain. Crafts and handmade goods are available as well as some tacky souvenirs.
Note: There are no footpaths, be careful as vehicles tear along the streets - especially motorbikes.
Mahkota Shopping Centre is Melakas newest and largest shopping centre with predictable air-conditioned chain stores. Theres nothing spectacular here but Malaysian
prices are often competitive internationally.
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Tourist Information Offices
Close to the roundabout opposite the Stadhuys in Red Square is Melakas Tourist Information Office. Information is limited and the office closes each day for lunch. Opening
times are 9:00am to 5:00pm daily. The Melaka Tourist Police, across the road can also assist with enquiries and maps.
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Cyber Melaka
Surprisingly for a tourist destination, Melaka doesnt have much of a net scene. You can get on-line in most hotels as well as in a couple of the trendier
bars and cafes around Jonker Street and Red Square.
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Tours
Behind the Tourist Information Office to the left of the caf is Melakas one and only river tour operator. Entertaining, imaginative commentary makes up
for the slight lack of quality or views. You will however see dozens of large lizards swimming or basking in the sun along the riverbanks. The tour takes 45 minutes if enough people
turn up and costs only a few Ringgit.
There arent really any city tours as everything in the centre is accessible by foot. Some trishaw riders speak good English and are able to explain some of the history whilst wheeling you
around.
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Getting From A to B
Many more interesting sites are clustered around Red Square, the A Famosa and Jonker Street all easily seen by foot. Walking around, you will be
constantly touted by trishaws. Dont dismiss these guys off hand, trishaws are a great and cheap way to see the town at a leisurely pace. Prices
cost RM5 for a local one-way journey, and for around RM20 an hour if your haggling is any good.
Taxis are hard to come by - in fact impossible to find most of the time. The one-way traffic system may take you away from your desired destination first, before
arriving from a totally different direction. Once again haggle, because they generally dont have meters. Across town should cost roughly RM 5-8, but they will probably ask triple that.
Renting a car is easier done from KL or other major entry points to Malaysia, however Jalan Bendahara offers a couple of international standard car rental offices. The
British left a legacy of parking meters so bring lots of 20 cent pieces - parking meters are everywhere and inspectors do check until 6pm. Breath in,
breath out, expect to get lost on Melaka's one-way roads and be careful of the suicidal motorbikes.
The express bus station is located near Jalan Hang Tuah on Jalan Tun Ali along with the taxi station. Buses operate from here to Singapore, KL, Johor and other main cities, a number of
which are air-conditioned. A number of bus company offices around this area take advanced bookings.
The train station, located in Tampin 45 minutes to the north on the state border, isn't convenient for servicing Melaka.
For a maritime centre, there are very few sea travel options. Workers and extreme backpackers take the 4 hour sea-crossings to dreary Dumai in Indonesia.
There is a very small airport but the national airline does not fly here and the only flight is the hop over the straits to Sumatra roughly 3 times a week via Pelangi Air.
The only real air access is KLIA Kuala Lumpur International Airport several hour's drive away.
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Events
During Chinese New Year, in February, the streets are filled with thousands of red Chinese lanterns hanging from shop and house fronts,
festivities take place around the temples and there are street processions and parties. The town becomes very busy during Chinese New Year and other public holidays, including
the Singapore Holidays, accommodations can be hard to confirm, so try to book early.
Thaipusam is the second most widely celebrated festival in Melaka honouring Lord Subramaniam. It is celebrated in the Tamil month of Thai - between January and February -
often later than in Kuala Lumpur. Colourful devotees process through the town, in penitence or thanksgiving. They often carry a traditional kavadi - a wooden
arch, decorated with peacock feathers and supporting offerings like fruits, flowers and pots of milk. Some carry heavy metal kavadi and practise
blood-tingling self-mortification, driving sharp skewers through their tongues, cheeks and bodies. A truly awesome sight.
Note: Its possible to see a Chinese procession during the day and then a Hindu celebration in the evening, especially towards the end of the Chinese New Year when the
celebrations overlap.
Not to be outdone, the Christians also parade through the Melakan streets at Christmas and Easter.
Melaka is also a good place to be based during the F1 Grand Prix hotel rates in Kuala Lumpur shoot up and bookings are often required months in advance.
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