Central Vietnam, Vietnam Destination Guide from asia-hotels.com

Central Vietnam, Vietnam

City Guide
Introduction | Hoi An | Hue | Da Nang | Tourist Information Offices | Entertainment & Eating Out | Shopping | Cyber Central Vietnam | Getting from A to B | Tours | Events

Introduction
For those wanting to delve deeper into Vietnam both geographically and culturally the central region offers a more rounded picture of the countrys roots. It is here that youll discover all three of Vietnams UNESCO cultural sites. The major sites of interest are loosely gathered around the three main towns in the region, Hoi An, Hue and Da Nang.

Central Vietnam is slowly opening up and becoming more accessible and offers a lot of variety. The historic region offers the entire scope of national architecture with good temples, ruins and colonial remnants. And as the frontier between former North and South Vietnam, the Demilitarised Zone saw some of the worst violence of the war with the devastation still very obvious. But broadly Central Vietnam is a picturesque area graced with emerald paddy fields and some surprisingly attractive beaches.

Hoi An

French Colonial buildings

Quaint Hoi An is a UNESCO heritage site and full of personality. The charming French colonial streets and the gentle glow of evening lanterns leave a lasting impression. This is definitely a worthy highlight of Vietnam.

The robust yet graceful 17th century Japanese bridge arches over a small stream. Built by early Japanese traders, the small covered bridge houses a small shrine and is perhaps the most photogenic of Hoi Ans structures.

Literally a stones throw from the bridge is Phung Hung, a traditional Vietnamese house. Have a cup of tea as the owners happily explain little quirks in the entirely wooden design such as the trap doors, and how they cope with regular flooding. Similar Vietnamese examples include the old Tran Family Chapel devoted to ancestor worship with generations of personal artifacts.

There are a number of traditional Chinese assembly halls dating back several centuries. Phuc Kien is the most impressive featuring some bright and colourful craftsmanship amongst the smouldering incense. Modest as far as Chinese buildings go, but attractive and well preserved. The Chuc Thanh Pagoda just outside town goes back 500 years and has some interesting antique bits and pieces.

The Ceramic Museum would be best left forgotten even if it were free. A sad assortment of bowls and junk hardly warrants a museum - in fact the local souvenir shops seem to have better displays. The Museum Of History And Culture is far better giving a wider and fuller account of local history. The building holding the collection is itself centuries old.

A 10 minute drive from town takes you to the fair Cua Dai Beach. The sea is clear and the sands broad but rather littered and the odd hawker casually comes by. Its quite average but easy going with a few simple snack bars and stalls nearby.

Hue

Thien Mu Pagoda

A few hours away lies Hue, the historic capital of Central Vietnam and another UNESCO site. Its very different from charming Hoi An as Hue itself is a fairly grubby city buttressed by robust walls. But the gentle Perfume River offers an easy escape and theres lots to see, most of it in the scenic green areas around the city.

The centrepiece is the bold 200-year-old Citadel is inspired by the vastly superior version in Beijing. Crossing the moat takes you past the sturdy walls and into the rather sombre palace and halls. Further back from the forecourts there are some nice crumbling and forgotten structures. The Citadel maybe seems a little predictable but its pleasant enough. Directly opposite is the proud Flag Tower, Vietnams tallest, and not far away a row of old cannons.

The countryside surrounding the city has the Royal Tombs of seven of Hues emperors. Tu Duc with serene lakeside location among the trees makes a good start. An enormous steel and rows of stone mandarins stand quietly in the grounds. The crumbling mausoleums are above ground and hemmed in by walls and are surprisingly modest.

Contrasting totally with Tu Duc is the Khai Dinh mausoleum, an unusual hybrid of Vietnamese and French styles. Colonial influences are strong - ascending the steps reminds one of a European church. Ascending levels have Vietnamese touches like the mandarins and snaking dragons but as in Europe the tomb is inside a building. The attractive mosaic patterned walls help make this the most striking on the eye. Its also the most modern and least Vietnamese of the tombs.

A few kilometres from the city overlooking the Perfume River is the Thien Mu Pagoda. Dating back 400 years, the well-kept tower and the nearby temple is a popular and scenic spot. Within the grounds is the car of the revered monk who burned himself to death to protest against President Diems suppression of Buddhism. The sky-blue car in the background of that famous shot is on display.

Not far from Hue is the attractive Thuan An Beach. The lagoon and golden sands make for a pleasant dip but there are a few aggressive hawkers. Down the road 5 km is An Duong Beach. It doesnt feature in leading guidebooks and is beautiful with friendly local people.

Da Nang

Marble Mountains

A handy transit point, average Da Nang is an industrial city and not really worth seeing as such, although the Marble Mountains are a good diversion for an hour or two. There is also an excellent beach, quite a surprise.

The 15-minute climb to the top of the Marble Mountains isnt too bad. At the top is a nice little temple and some small dripping caves and grottos that cool you down after the climb. Within are traditional shrines and statues. Outside, the view and the modern pagoda are no more than average and the litter can be a problem, but overall it is a pleasant little walk, albeit a little touristy.

The Cham Museum is housed in a historic colonial building and has a good presentation outlining the civilisation that once dominated Central Vietnam, the Chams. Fine examples of stone works are on display, many very similar in style and craftsmanship to the neighbouring Khmers.

The 30 km length of nearby coast is famous for being the landing point of the US Army in the war and frontline troops spot for rest and relaxation. You could easily drive past the most significant part of China Beach without noticing it. The ordinary stretch of sand has little going for it other than its historical significance and is a tour bus pit stop with a few hawkers and not much else. But then there are the superb white sands near the Furama Resort. Well-maintained and spotless, its lined with trees for shade and offers watersporting activities - and theres no hassling. Bring your camera, this is postcard stuff.

Tourist Information Offices
Official tourist information offices have yet to evolve, but it matters little with the countless independent tour operators in Hue and Hoi An. Hotels and cafes are good sources of info as always.

Entertainment and Eating Out

China Beach

The entertainment and dining for the region is no more than average. The best choice of restaurants are probably in Hoi An, but entertainment is scarce anywhere.

Hoi An has plenty of cheap little restaurants and cafs that serve some nice local dishes. Western food is a hit and miss affair - some dishes are good but other local attempts are dreadful. Forget pizza in this town, asia-hotels experienced possibly the worst pizzas in Asia - utterly inedible.

There is one exception which serves great Italian, pizzas included - the Italian run Good Morning Vietnam restaurant. The quality on offer here is by far Hoi Ans best and the prices although much higher than other places, are reasonable. If you are looking for a nice restaurant then this is the best in town.

Popular with a good local menu is Han Huyen, the Floating Restaurant, close to the Japanese Bridge. Good bar-cafes include Treats, Champa and Tam Tam.

The large city of Da Nang is filled with local restaurants serving good, affordable Vietnamese cuisine. The Furama Resort has the finest restaurants in the city, the Wild Crab being worth a special mention for its local seafood. The entertainment seems to be in the form of the numerous rowdy karaoke bars throughout the city.

Hue is rather disappointing all round, with little imagination shown in dining or entertainment. The Century Riverside has a delicious range of Vietnamese cuisine overlooking the river. The Western food is fair but nothing special, but better than most.

A few Hue restaurants worth a mention include Tay Nguyen and Garden Club. The Mandarin Restaurant is rather ugly but serves tasty food. Duyen Anh a little out of town is noted for its seafood. Still, its hard to put on weight in Hue. Nightlife seems to revolve around a few local karaoke joints and sleazy massage parlours.

Shopping
Shopping opportunities are quite limited in terms of choice and quality but bargain hunters and those looking to pick up a little souvenir will be happy enough.

Hoi An is the best place for souvenirs and the prices are more flexible here. The scenic streets are lined with little stalls selling trinkets, paintings and T-shirts. Handmade lanterns are a local speciality and can be picked up for under a dollar and the cheerful but somewhat amateur paintings are in the same price range.

The old town is also the best place to pick up tailored clothes. There are plenty of tailors, the prices are good and the workmanship quite reasonable.

Da Nang is a large city with lots of local household goods. Shopping isnt particularly exciting but this is the best place to find pieces carved from marble. Good quality statues, vases and carvings are sold in little shops and workshops near the Marble Mountains but haggle very hard as some prices quoted are plain daft. Some works are enormous and would look at home in any proud corporate lobby.

Hue is quite large and busy but has little in the way of shopping for the visitor. There are one or two little trinket shops opposite the Century Riverside, but thats about it.

Cyber Central Vietnam
Cheap Internet cafes are sprinkled around the more touristy parts but can be frustratingly slow, especially in Hoi An. Hotels tend to offer quicker and more reliable connections but are unreasonably expensive.

Getting From A to B

Cyclos and mopeds as transportation

Central Vietnam is easy to get around and cheap. However, for those coming in from the Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City, it can take more than a day to get here unless you fly.

The best way to get around the town centre is to hop on a traditional cyclo. Although they are happy to make a quick buck out of the more nave tourists, some are very friendly and make useful guides.

To get further out take a taxi - cheap and comfortable. Many will try to haggle for inflated rates, especially for the airport, but will back down when you insist on the meter. The countless motorcycle taxis work out cheaper than taxis.

For day trips outside the towns hiring a car and driver is the best bet. Hotel choices tend to be safer and more comfortable. With Vietnams creaking infrastructure this is definitely the way to go for longer trips.

Taking a riverboat and soaking up the scenery on Hues Perfume River is good idea. Boats shuttle back and forth to the Thien Mu Pagoda and can be chartered.

Vietnamese long distance buses are extensive but a feat of endurance. Overcrowded and old, these bangers take forever to reach their destinations but cost virtually nothing. Travel agents arrange backpacker buses very cheaply, but they tend to leave at inconvenient times. Local versions are similarly priced, but have little English.

Trains are outdated, neglected and even slower than buses. There are several types plodding up and down the spine of the country. Hue and Da Nang are connected but trains bypass Hoi An.

Flying is the only practical way to reach Central Vietnam for those with limited time. Da Nang International airport has flights to Hong Kong as well as domestic links. The other regional airport is Phu Bai Domestic Airport 15 km outside Hue. Both are quite busy and represent the only practical way to reach the region if your time is limited.

Note: the nice ladies selling confectionary at Vietnamese airports are running a racket - they overcharge foreigners substantially! To get the real price insist on a receipt that details the exact product and quantity.

Tours

Hai Van Pass

Tours are easily arranged and some are very popular and real bargains. One disadvantage is that they often all converge on areas at the same times.

Between Da Nang and Hue the road weaves into the hills until it reaches the excellent panorama of Hai Van Pass. The impressive views north and south have always been strategically important which explains the cluster of rugged pillboxes and older French forts, complete with bullet holes. Today its a place to stop off, stretch your legs and haggle a drink.

50 km south of Hoi An are the best ancient ruins of Vietnam. The remote My Son Temples are a testament to the Cham civilisation of 7th to 13th centuries. Most of the ruins were sadly obliterated in the war but a fine outcrop still remains. Some brick towers have ornate sculptures and sprout wild weeds. This rural UNESCO World Heritage Site can get rather busy. Still, the bold temples are in a good state of disrepair and worth the long detour.

Tours north of Hue include long daytrips to the former Demilitarised Zone, a narrow strip of land that split the country in two and saw some of the most vicious battles of the US-Vietnam conflict. The battle-scarred DMZ is a sober yet thought-provoking trip with bases, tunnels, battlefields and uninspiring war memorabilia. The Ho Chi Minh Trail wound its way through here, the American response was to devastate all vegetation with Agent Orange. The sad legacy of barren wastelands remains - even now the powerful toxins rob the land of life.

Events
With its shared border and centuries of influence, Vietnams holidays mirror those of the Chinese. Dates of religious festivals tend to float about with the lunar calendar whereas political holidays are set.

The big one is Tet, the major annual festival when everything grinds to a halt. The festival marks the lunar New Year and falls in late January or February. Fireworks, decorations and banqueting make for a grand cultural celebration. Hotels and flights sell out and shops and attractions close at this time. Book everything well in advance.

September 2 is National Day which sees flags hanging off every building to mark Vietnams declaration of independence.

The second largest festival of the year is Wandering Souls Day, usually around July. Food offerings are made to the dead and paper gifts to the restless ghosts go up in smoke.

One of the best nights of the year is the Mid-Autumn Festival. Children carry colourful glowing lanterns and the country overdoses on festive moon cakes. Dates vary, but it usually flickers into life around October.

Liberation Day on 30 April celebrates the liberation of Saigon in 1975 by the North and is followed by International Labour Day on 1 May for a 2-day holiday. More patriotism follows with Ho Chi Minhs Birthday celebrated on 19 May.