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 Traveller's Tales: Getting around in Sabah, Malaysia
Know the most popular landmarks in Sabah, Malaysia. You may read about best transportation, recommended travel itinerary, suggested routes and directions. Also, you might want to read our
Kuala Lumpur city guide,
Langkawi city guide,
Melaka city guide,
and Penang city guide.
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| S Hargreaves |
27 January 2004 |
Stayed at Jesselton Hotel, The - Sabah, Malaysia.
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My partner (Damian) came up with the bright idea for us to climb Mount Kinabalu over the Chinese New Year. Seemed a great idea at the time. We flew from Senai Airport (near Johor Bahru) to Kinabalu, which took just over two hours and was some S$150 each cheaper than flying from Singapore, where we live. Our treat for such a reckless mission was a stay at the luxurious Jesselton Hotel (the best hotel in Kinabalu) either side of our time at National Park.
The next morning we were up early to take the local bus to the Park – about an hour away. When we checked in at the Park, we discovered that we were staying at Mesilau, which, though still within the confines of the Park, was a 30 minute (or, in cash terms, RM65) taxi ride away. Plus, this would then add some 2 hours to our trek the next day. Fantastic! (Tip: Bring plenty of US dollars as the park only accepts cash and there seems to be lots of add-ons that they should really have told you about before you arrive.)
Our room was a dormitory - a far cry from the Jesselton - with shared bathrooms but at least it was warm and dry. The next day, after breakfast and another early morning shock to the system, we met our guide, Alex, and started up Mount Kinabalu.
There is not too much to say about trekking up a mountain other than that even though you have a rough idea that it will involve a lot of walking, it does not really hit you until you have to do it. (Tip: It is worth investing in proper clothing and shoes, as everything will get soaked otherwise. Plus a plastic sheath for your nap-sack is a must to help try and keep things dry.)
During our trek upwards, I lost track of the number of times that Damian apologised for choosing the 'break' or me pointing out that I was 'so choosing our next break'. Plus the locals put us to shame as they flew past us with 15kg gas cylinders on their heads. Still we struggled on. And on…
We eventually reached base camp, Laban Rata, at 5 pm: some eight, long hours after setting off. Neither of us could really say or do much until we had showered, put on some dry clothes and were fed. (Laban Rata may have been a basic hut high on a mountain, but the fact that every single thing has to be carried up to it makes the place seem very special indeed).
The ascent the next day not only involves a 2am start and takes 2 ½ hours in the pitch black, but you have to literally pull yourself up the mountain, avoid altitude sickness, so that you can then huddle around in the cold to wait for sunrise. If you are lucky, you will then have 15 minutes to take in the view (provided that the mist has not already descended) before you set off back from whence you came. After arriving back at Laban Rata, you should have time to grab a quick bite before embarking on the 4-hour descent in the pouring rain. (Tip No. 3: Going up is only half the battle!)
On paper, it sounds a piece of (Kendle Mint) cake to stroll back down. But when your legs/feet are aching like never before, the weather decides to drench you again and the stones/steps become even more slipperier, it soon becomes apparent that you are in for another hard slog. So some 4 hours after leaving Laban Rata we were back on terra firma - though as Damian, quite rightly pointed out, we were always on terra firma - just that up on the mountain, it did not feel like it.
We took a bus back to the Park HQ (for which we, were again charged for) and then had to take another ride (yes, charged again for that too) to our room for the night. There we discovered that there was no electricity from 1-5pm anywhere in the Park but, thankfully, there was just enough hot water to shower.
We ate locally that night - as neither of us could walk/hobble that far - and the next day, we took a taxi to Poring, where, after a scary stroll some 150 feet above the ground via a suspended canopy, we got to bathe in the hot, natural springs there. Then it was a cab back to Ranua (which is just one big bus terminal), where we took a cramped, but cheap, bus back to Kinabalu for another night at the Jesselton.
All in all a pretty tiring but rewarding trip all the same. Next time, if there is a next time, we will take the shorter trek up Mount Kinabalu (ie not from Mesilau) and invest in some proper out door gear other than shades, a sarong and some sun-cream. Before that, though, I am so choosing our next 'break'!
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| E Chan |
18 July 2003 |
Stayed at Sutera Harbour Resort & Spa, The - Sabah, Malaysia.
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The Japanese Restaurant called Nishiki near the Tourist Board in K.K. city is a must try. Serves very good quality food with reasonable price. The three small islands in front of the hotels are also a must go. There are scheduled speed boats departing from the Marina of the hotel. Seats can be reserved from their concierge. If you have time, you may also spend a day on the National Park near Mt. Kinabalu. Don't forget to look for the guided tour into the jungle. There are two restaurants in the area, the one in an Alpine wooden house (the starting point of the guided tour) on the lower part of the area is much better. I rented a car from a local rent-a-car company for only RM120 a day to get there. It's not the best car but my family enjoyed very much during the trip.
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| B Nolan |
09 November 2002 |
Stayed at Jesselton Hotel, The - Sabah, Malaysia.
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Taxis without meters very annoying.
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| C Sellers |
08 October 2002 |
Stayed at Jesselton Hotel, The - Sabah, Malaysia.
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We enjoyed walking around the city, people were friendly and helpful, the markets were clean, interesting to browse in with a variety of produce and crafts. We hired local boatsmen to take us to the Abdul Rahman nat'l park offshore and there was decent snorkelling at the ecolodge beach altho the coral was severely damaged. A tour and private car was available through the hotel to Kinabalu nat'l park which had great flora, fauna and hiking trails
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| A Stevenson |
16 August 2002 |
Stayed at Jesselton Hotel, The - Sabah, Malaysia.
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Kota Kinabulu was very itneresting to visit. The lcoal people were extremely warm and frinedly to us, and we felt very safe. We had an island boat tour (boat and taxi), and a trip to the Orang-utan sanctuary (minibus and flight) both of which were great. We mainly ate at the Wishbone Cafe at the Jesselton as the food there was superb. We enjoyed the markets in KK.
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| P Chapman |
23 June 2002 |
Stayed at Jesselton Hotel, The - Sabah, Malaysia.
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All the tour guides say that Kota Kinabalu is a pleasant city useful mostly as a jumping-off point for other area attractions, and I found that to be the case. There's little to do in KK, although it is worth a walk around (which won't take too long). Also the Mosopiad culture village is definitely worth a visit, though it is probably not as well known as it should be. Tunku Abdul Raman national park, just off the coast at KK is beautiful and easy to reach; it can be done in a day, but revisited any number of times! Apart from that, most interesting things are really a couple of days away, so I found that 3 days was an awkward amount of time to spend there. This time I would have prefered to stay only 2 days, but next time I'll want to go for at least a week!
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| D Crwys-williams |
12 November 2001 |
Stayed at Jesselton Hotel, The - Sabah, Malaysia.
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Do not expect too much of Kota Kinabalu outside the resorts. The town itself is a pleasant mixture of modern trash and interesting local crafts and everyday markets. As nothing is older than 50 years due to WW II there is little of any architectural interest, and thus little charm. The surrounding vilages are both welcoming and unspoilt and well worth a taxi excursion.
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| P Achleitner |
09 July 2001 |
Stayed at Jesselton Hotel, The - Sabah, Malaysia.
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To visit Mt. Kinabalu National Park by private car from Kota Kinabalu, take Jalan Pantai to the new four-lane highway past the 32 storey Sabah Foundation Building and turn right at the next traffic light. The new highway is not shown on even the most recent maps.
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| T Ione yerburgh |
11 February 2001 |
Stayed at Jesselton Hotel, The - Sabah, Malaysia.
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KK an interesting town for a couple of days as find feet in Sabah. Excellent restaurant for fish called Port View not far from The Jesselton. Also visited Sukau/Sepilok/Sandakan and Mabul/ Sipadan . Very good diving but glad we saw a little bit more of the country than just the sea.
Malaysian Airlines was slightly unpredictable for scheduled internal flights and if making your own arrangements you should leave plenty of time to connect to international flights (we made ours by about 10 minutes having given ourselves 3 hours). Out of 6 internal flights 1 one was cancelled one delayed by 1 1/2 hour and one could not land for 45 minutes because of adverse weather (a bit scary !). Also stayed at Sipidan Water Villas Mabul which was fantastic and Sukau River Lodge which was fairly basic but well run. The journey to Sukau is quite an adventure. (10 hours from KK by plane and 3 local minibus' .last 42 km appears impossible as road is appalling but somehow the bus only got stuck in the mud once.)Be warned there are no direct minibus' to Sukau from Sandakan (Rough guide says that there are) also almost impossible to get back from Sukau by public transport. (we took lodges' taxi at cost of US$60 cf cost of minibus' $5).
If going to sukau take a tour as cheaper than doing it on own. Special internet rate at River lodge was higher than lodge's normal rate and once cot of boat trips included total cost for 2 was about £100 higher than tour cost even taking into account fact we had got ourselves there (they agreed to reduce price when I pointed this out to them ).
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| R Perata |
29 January 2001 |
Stayed at Jesselton Hotel, The - Sabah, Malaysia.
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Stayed here before and after going to Sandkan area to see Orang rehab center, Kenbatagan River and Danum Valley rain forest. It was so pleasant returning here after "roughing it" for a few days. And just a few minutes by boat to get to the nearby islands for sunbathing and snorkeling.
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