Top Vientiane Hotels

Located serenely on the north bank of the broad, languid Mekong River, Vientiane is a very modest capital. It's heart is compact and easily accessible on foot, with bakeries and cafes never too far away. Paddy fields still dot the suburbs, extending close to the city center in places. Its still a sleepy place, despite the rise in traffic over the last few years, and the town is dotted with fine examples of Laotian temple architecture and French colonial buildings, some tastefully restored, most crumbling. Charming lanes run off the main streets in the heart of town, leading to scenes of life that have changed little over the last few decades.

For the visitor, Vientiane, despite its urbanity, remains quirky while its people are almost as pleasantly relaxed as their rural cousins. Vientiane is also a chance to step back in time to gain an impression of what neighbouring Thai provincial towns were like before breakneck industrialization swept the kingdom.

Vientiane is more colourful and cheerier than any communist European capital. Most places of interest are concentrated in a small area around parallel Setthathirat and Samsenthai roads, including the commercial and administrative districts. Its easy to explore on foot along shady avenues and streets stretching from the pleasant Mekong riverside to Talaat Sao, the morning market. Surrounded by a lush garden, Wat Si Saket is one of Vientianes oldest temples, although not the oldest Buddhist site - many temples were destroyed during wars in the 19th century. A large wat bearing a strong Thai influence with some fine, but fading Buddhist murals, its home to over 6000 Buddhas of varying sizes and styles. More tranquil than most temples, its worth lingering for a few extra moments in the pleasant garden before returning to the dusty streets.

10 minutes walk west along Setthathirat Rd is Wat Ong Teu Mahawihan, one of the centers of Buddhist theology in Laos. The place never seems overrun with monks. Interesting features include intricate carvings, a large bronze Buddha and a big drum atop a tower.

Hop in a tuk-tuk for a 10-minute ride, via the Arc de Triomphe-like Patuxai, along some could-be-grand avenues to Pha That Luang, a very-sacred, castle-like symbol of Buddhism and the Laotian state. The stupa dates back 400 years, although it was rebuilt early last century. The design embodies Buddhist ideas about ascending to Nirvana, and of course depicts many Buddhas. Theres a few grand buildings, apart from Pha That Luang, the symbol of national sovereignty and Buddhism, the unfinished 1969 Patuxai national monument, and the new Chinese-financed cultural center.

Charting the history of the Pathet Laos march to victory, the Lao Revolutionary Museum is something of a gem as there arent too many communist propaganda halls like this left. Housed in a sprawling mansion on Samsenthai Rd, exhibits include maps, uniforms, and guns used by Laotians or imperialists. Theres also a small exhibition on Laotian culture, geography and geology, which seems to be an afterthought. Open 8-11.30am and 2-4.30pm, weekdays.

Once the Royal Temple, Haw Pha Kaew houses many royal religious artifacts including a throne, manuscripts and bronze drums. Also here are a number of Buddhas, plus a good collection of Laotian Buddhist sculpture. Although it is no longer a temple, some still make offerings on top of a wooden naga. Open 8-11.30am and 2-4.30pm, Tuesday to Friday.

Kaysone Phomvihane Museum is dedicated to the life of the Pathet Lao leader who directed wartime communist forces from a cave in northeast, and became Laos first post-war leader. Its a cult-like place, following his life from a boy in southern Savannakhet province to guerilla leader and architect of a postwar workers utopia. Open 8-11.30am and 2-4.30pm, Tuesday to Friday.

Vientiane is more colourful and cheerier than any communist European capital. Most places of interest are concentrated in a small area around parallel Setthathirat and Samsenthai roads, including the commercial and administrative districts. Its easy to explore on foot along shady avenues and streets stretching from the pleasant Mekong riverside to Talaat Sao, the morning market. Surrounded by a lush garden, Wat Si Saket is one of Vientianes oldest temples, although not the oldest Buddhist site - many temples were destroyed during wars in the 19th century. A large wat bearing a strong Thai influence with some fine, but fading Buddhist murals, its home to over 6000 Buddhas of varying sizes and styles. More tranquil than most temples, its worth lingering for a few extra moments in the pleasant garden before returning to the dusty streets.

10 minutes walk west along Setthathirat Rd is Wat Ong Teu Mahawihan, one of the centers of Buddhist theology in Laos. The place never seems overrun with monks. Interesting features include intricate carvings, a large bronze Buddha and a big drum atop a tower.

Hop in a tuk-tuk for a 10-minute ride, via the Arc de Triomphe-like Patuxai, along some could-be-grand avenues to Pha That Luang, a very-sacred, castle-like symbol of Buddhism and the Laotian state. The stupa dates back 400 years, although it was rebuilt early last century. The design embodies Buddhist ideas about ascending to Nirvana, and of course depicts many Buddhas. Theres a few grand buildings, apart from Pha That Luang, the symbol of national sovereignty and Buddhism, the unfinished 1969 Patuxai national monument, and the new Chinese-financed cultural center.

Charting the history of the Pathet Laos march to victory, the Lao Revolutionary Museum is something of a gem as there arent too many communist propaganda halls like this left. Housed in a sprawling mansion on Samsenthai Rd, exhibits include maps, uniforms, and guns used by Laotians or imperialists. Theres also a small exhibition on Laotian culture, geography and geology, which seems to be an afterthought. Open 8-11.30am and 2-4.30pm, weekdays.

Once the Royal Temple, Haw Pha Kaew houses many royal religious artifacts including a throne, manuscripts and bronze drums. Also here are a number of Buddhas, plus a good collection of Laotian Buddhist sculpture. Although it is no longer a temple, some still make offerings on top of a wooden naga. Open 8-11.30am and 2-4.30pm, Tuesday to Friday.

Kaysone Phomvihane Museum is dedicated to the life of the Pathet Lao leader who directed wartime communist forces from a cave in northeast, and became Laos first post-war leader. Its a cult-like place, following his life from a boy in southern Savannakhet province to guerilla leader and architect of a postwar workers utopia. Open 8-11.30am and 2-4.30pm, Tuesday to Friday.

Although Vientianes nightlife and dining scene has picked up over the last few years, the place isnt overrun with clubs and restaurants. Most streets are deserted by midnight. A few bars and plenty of restaurants, many al fresco and informal, line Fa Ngum St along the Mekong between Chao Anou and Mahosot streets. One block north along Setthathirat Rd and the streets leading to it from Fa Ngum, are more restaurants and bars, including the well-established Sam Lo. These tend to be more upmarket, but still very good value.

Chess Club on Mahosot St is worth seeking out. There are a few bakeries along Setthathirat and Chao Anou. Just off Setthathirat is Nam Phu, the Fountain Circle, which is a pleasant place for drinks. Around it are a few Italian and French restaurants, plus a Swedish bakery. Talaat Sao, the morning market, actually runs all day and is a great place to join locals for a bowl of noodles or grilled chicken. Baguettes with local pat are also plentiful here.

In the evenings, Chao Anou St and a few of the side streets draw stalls selling bean curd and noodles. There are also a few restaurants here that do noodles and chicken or duck rice.

At the far end of Chao Anou, beyond Samsenthai St near Khun Bulom St is a night market selling pungent curries, grilled chicken, spicy salads and other specialties. Often takeaway only.

Although Vientianes nightlife and dining scene has picked up over the last few years, the place isnt overrun with clubs and restaurants. Most streets are deserted by midnight. A few bars and plenty of restaurants, many al fresco and informal, line Fa Ngum St along the Mekong between Chao Anou and Mahosot streets. One block north along Setthathirat Rd and the streets leading to it from Fa Ngum, are more restaurants and bars, including the well-established Sam Lo. These tend to be more upmarket, but still very good value.

Chess Club on Mahosot St is worth seeking out. There are a few bakeries along Setthathirat and Chao Anou. Just off Setthathirat is Nam Phu, the Fountain Circle, which is a pleasant place for drinks. Around it are a few Italian and French restaurants, plus a Swedish bakery. Talaat Sao, the morning market, actually runs all day and is a great place to join locals for a bowl of noodles or grilled chicken. Baguettes with local pat are also plentiful here.

In the evenings, Chao Anou St and a few of the side streets draw stalls selling bean curd and noodles. There are also a few restaurants here that do noodles and chicken or duck rice.

At the far end of Chao Anou, beyond Samsenthai St near Khun Bulom St is a night market selling pungent curries, grilled chicken, spicy salads and other specialties. Often takeaway only.

Vientiane isnt the place to storm shopping malls for Louis Vuitton or Prada. Instead it offers some of the purest silver, much made into intricate pieces by the countrys tribes, fine ethnic artifacts and clothing, plus many unique wooden household items. The eastern end of Samsenthai is home to a handful of jewelers, ethnic and antique shops.

Talaat Sao, which includes the dreary state department store, is probably a better place to look; prices are likely to be keener and the range greater. Talaat Sao and the area outside the post office are the places to head for herbal medicine. Prices in shops are more likely to be fixed, although its always worth making an offer.

Fresh food prices in the markets are usually fixed. For other items, good-natured bargaining can often elicit a discount.

Vientiane isnt the place to storm shopping malls for Louis Vuitton or Prada. Instead it offers some of the purest silver, much made into intricate pieces by the countrys tribes, fine ethnic artifacts and clothing, plus many unique wooden household items. The eastern end of Samsenthai is home to a handful of jewelers, ethnic and antique shops.

Talaat Sao, which includes the dreary state department store, is probably a better place to look; prices are likely to be keener and the range greater. Talaat Sao and the area outside the post office are the places to head for herbal medicine. Prices in shops are more likely to be fixed, although its always worth making an offer.

Fresh food prices in the markets are usually fixed. For other items, good-natured bargaining can often elicit a discount.

Its hard to go far along either of Vientianes main thoroughfares, Samsenthai or Setthathirat, without passing a cyber caf. There are more on the latter though and many hotels and guesthouses also offer Internet access. Planet on Setthathirat is one of the largest facilities and is part of Planet Computers. Standard charges are about a few cents per minute.

Getting around is straightforward; mini-buses and taxis are everywhere and can easily be flagged down. Taxis are probably the best mode of transport for visitors and often wait around hotels. They are cheap, fast and above all metered.

Popular with tourists are the pedicabs located at the ferry terminal and outside the Hotel Lisboa. It's advisable to agree on a rate with the driver before setting out and to bear in mind that pedaling up the steep hills that feature most of the historical sites is impractical.

Hiring a car or a small jeep, locally known as a Moke, can be an enjoyable way to explore Macau but is totally unnecessary if your stay is restricted to the major attractions on the peninsula. Access to Guangdong Province in Mainland China is via the Portas do Cerco (Barrier Gate). Hong Kong can be reached in an hour by sea on the 24 hour Jetfoil service from the Macau Ferry Terminal. In addition, there are regular ferries and turbo-cats. For those on a greater budget, helicopters provide a scenic, rapid alternative.

The International Airport is situated on reclaimed land off Taipa. An airport bus leaves every 15 minutes and passes major hotels, central Macau and the ferry terminal on its way to the Barrier Gate.

Getting around is straightforward; mini-buses and taxis are everywhere and can easily be flagged down. Taxis are probably the best mode of transport for visitors and often wait around hotels. They are cheap, fast and above all metered.

Popular with tourists are the pedicabs located at the ferry terminal and outside the Hotel Lisboa. It's advisable to agree on a rate with the driver before setting out and to bear in mind that pedaling up the steep hills that feature most of the historical sites is impractical.

Hiring a car or a small jeep, locally known as a Moke, can be an enjoyable way to explore Macau but is totally unnecessary if your stay is restricted to the major attractions on the peninsula. Access to Guangdong Province in Mainland China is via the Portas do Cerco (Barrier Gate). Hong Kong can be reached in an hour by sea on the 24 hour Jetfoil service from the Macau Ferry Terminal. In addition, there are regular ferries and turbo-cats. For those on a greater budget, helicopters provide a scenic, rapid alternative.

The International Airport is situated on reclaimed land off Taipa. An airport bus leaves every 15 minutes and passes major hotels, central Macau and the ferry terminal on its way to the Barrier Gate.

Chinese New Year takes place at the end of January or the beginning of February. Traditional celebrations mark the Lunar New Year. Most shops and businesses close during this time - dragon dances, firework displays and deafening firecrackers make it a colourful and busy time to visit, albeit very noisy. The Dragon Boat Festival occurs in early June to commemorate the Chinese hero Ch'u Yuen who killed himself by jumping into a river in China as a protest against the corrupt government. Rowing teams eagerly compete against each other in dragon boats and hanging festive rice dumplings tempt passers by from restaurant windows.

Mid Autumn Festival Commemorates a revolt against the Mongols when rebellion was spread by messages hidden inside moon cakes. Crowds flock to high places throughout the islands with lanterns and moon cakes to watch the moon, often until dawn. The cakes are very sweet and solid with an egg yolk in the centre and are somewhat of an acquired taste.

The Macau Grand Prix takes place every November attracting vast numbers of overseas visitors and can be watched from many hotels as the race winds through Macau's urban roads.

Note: Visitors should book hotels well in advance - this is Macau's biggest event of the year.

Travel agents and hotels in Vientiane, and most provincial capitals, can arrange tours. Diethelm Travel and government-owned SODETOUR are among the leading operators. Centrally located Vientiane makes a good departure point for exploring almost anywhere in the country. Venture south to the once war torn province of Savannakhet, where the North Vietnamese moved men and supplies through Laos to Vietnam along a network of trails, known as the Ho Chi Minh Trail. Theres not much to see now, although plenty of war debris and chunks of American planes remain. Even so its still something of a hit-and-miss affair. Savannakhet and Xepon on the Vietnamese border are the best places to seek directions and a guide.

Savannakhet town itself is something of an underrated gem. The town is so quiet, you could be forgiven for wondering if anybody was in at times. Most buildings are only two or three storeys high, and many of them bear strong traces of French times. The large market is great for poking around and dining on local food.

Beyond Savannakhet is the Bolavens plateau, an agriculturally rich area producing tea, coffee and fruits. Elephant treks are a good way to see the fair bit of forest left along with the amazing animals.

Cambodias famed Angkor civilization stretched into Champassak province, contributing to Wat Phu, a Hindu temple with its roots in pre-Angkor civilizations, which now lies in ruins. Fortunately theres more than just a pile of stones as much of the temple remains intact, spread across quite a large, pleasant site.

South towards the Cambodian border live river dolphins, particularly around the Si Phan Don islands. They can be seen along this part of the Mekong River and also occasionally the tributary Se Kong River.

Chinese New Year takes place at the end of January or the beginning of February. Traditional celebrations mark the Lunar New Year. Most shops and businesses close during this time - dragon dances, firework displays and deafening firecrackers make it a colourful and busy time to visit, albeit very noisy. The Dragon Boat Festival occurs in early June to commemorate the Chinese hero Ch'u Yuen who killed himself by jumping into a river in China as a protest against the corrupt government. Rowing teams eagerly compete against each other in dragon boats and hanging festive rice dumplings tempt passers by from restaurant windows.

Mid Autumn Festival Commemorates a revolt against the Mongols when rebellion was spread by messages hidden inside moon cakes. Crowds flock to high places throughout the islands with lanterns and moon cakes to watch the moon, often until dawn. The cakes are very sweet and solid with an egg yolk in the centre and are somewhat of an acquired taste.

The Macau Grand Prix takes place every November attracting vast numbers of overseas visitors and can be watched from many hotels as the race winds through Macau's urban roads.

Note: Visitors should book hotels well in advance - this is Macau's biggest event of the year.

National Tourism Authority is on Lan Xang Rd, opposite the Bank of Ayudhya and the Centre de Langue Francais. Tel/fax: +856 21 212 013